Happy New Year

Back to school!

Happy new year to all. Presently, we find ourselves having finished five weeks of holiday. Now back in Cape Town, we've returned to school and work with a renewed sense of purpose. Five weeks was long enough to peer into the abyss that lies beyond this mortal coil. Naively one wishes for the unlimited beach and all that is associated with it; fine sunshine, cool water, rich feasts, care free days, play, and, allegedly relaxation. But when life delivers on this, experience begins to diverge from fantasy. One (or at least I) begins longing for the dull routine of work. The familiarity of surroundings and social contacts. The sense of accomplishing something, even if that something is make believe. In the end the experience was, if you'll indulge me; crystalline fragments of pure bliss, embedded in a gooey substrate of idleness. A summary follows.

The Vermont cottage lies behind the dam and to the left.

Last you read, we had been to stay in a cottage in Citrusdal. Upon leaving there, we moved our life to a small town called Vermont. Named after the green hills visible from the town, this community is largely the result of the sprawl of beach homes that stretches out from the very popular resort town of Hermanus. We found an affordable cottage on a 'small holding' or estate of several acres in size. On the property, there was a small dam for swimming, and an enormous 'garden' (used the way we use 'yard') for playing.

Zach on the rocky coast near the cottage.

From our cottage, it was easy to walk to the coast, which in that area has a rocky, but attractive quality. Many small and fascinating creatures can be found in the pools left in the rocks at low tide, and kids carry small nets on the ends of sticks. 6 kilometers of well maintained coastal path made the morning jogs some of the best I've had. The area is very Afrikaans, and trail users greet you with a terse, 'mor-a'.

A short distance away from the cottage there were beaches with good swimming. One of our favorites was Ornus beach, where the Ornus river meets the ocean. The ocean can be intense, with its cold, powerful waves and stinging salt. A warm, fresh river to soak in was sometimes a welcome change.

Swimming in the ocean at Ornus beach.

We idled away the days on the beach, and occasionally would move inland, to some well developed hiking trails on the Fernkloof nature reserve. The wild flowers were putting on a good show, and we enjoyed a couple of pleasant walks.

As an indication of the social milieu that develops around a family spending so much time together, our most memorable experiences involved meeting friends who were also in the area. We hiked a few miles along a river to a secluded and refreshing swimming hole. We also did some horse back riding, and had a nice lunch with other friends.

Fernkloof flower; lanaria lanata

Another social outlet was provided by the owners of the cottage, who had us over on Christmas Eve. We had a fine evening, in what seemed to be a uniquely South African way. The dish that was most desired was the corned beef tongue. The family was Afrikaans, and very committed to the betterment of the country: running a charitable organization that promotes English literacy in Xhosa speaking families. They showed us the sort of hospitality that we've come to think of as normal here, but I still marvel over when I take a moment to think about it.

Hiking above Hermanus at the Fernkloof nature reserve.

Christmas itself was a quiet affair, with a few gifts, and, at Abe's insistence, some of the saltiest ham (called jammon here) I've ever had. Curiously, I think ham (or salt?) in those dosages can be something of a stimulant. I couldn't sleep at all that night.

Finally, our time there ended, and we returned to Cape Town to collect my father, who made the  long trip form South Dakota. So began another long and indulgent adventure, this time with more money being spent.

Abe climbing on rocks at 'Breakfast beach'.

We spent a few days in Cape Town, seeing the things that most agree one should see. This was somewhat tiring, as there is a fair amount of driving involved in going to all the sites in a few days. I think it was good, but I'm sure dad was mostly in a haze of jet lag.

For us, the trip took a turn for the better when we went to Franschhoek, and settled in for a few nights. Once there, our driving time was reduced to simple jaunts for meals or wine tasting. There was more time to relax and read, or enjoy one anothers company. I caught up with dad on some family business, and eagerly participated in his favorite pastime, arguing. Dad involved himself in the poolside tomfoolery that 7 and 9 year old boys invent.

Dining in Franschhoek.

I'm told by South Africans that Franschhoek has become an internationally recognized center for cuisine. I agree. Everything was superb, and the pairings of the wines with foods really adds to the enjoyment. I've never had it so good, I'm starting to think of wine as a staple, like bread. Always seeking to diversify the list of things I have consumed, I made some odd choices on the menus, opting for the suckling pig, and the lamb's liver. They were good, but it did seem that others did better with more conventional choices. Ah well, how many people can really say that they have experienced the finest liver possible? If you're curious, it still tastes like liver.

Waenhuiskrans, or (covered) wagon house cave, Arniston.

Dad's trip concluded in Arniston. Our friends  suggested we come and visit them at their cabin there, and experience the delights of the 'Arniston hotel and spa'. It was a very good suggestion. Arniston comes as close to some beach ideal as it gets, I guess. Very few people, very good service, warm and calm waters for swimming. I sort of get it, understand why people get so excited about this. But I still haven't figured out what I'm supposed to be doing at a beach resort.

Dad looking for octopus.

And that, friends, is all. You're very patient to make it through this account, I think it's more for my own memory than something people would be interested in reading. But, it was getting to be time for another post, and the holidays are the obvious thing to discuss. Soon I'll be teaching, and the daily events will be worth relating.